Day 16

Day 16, August 18

This day was an easy pedal back in to Takamatsu. Finished the remaining 3 temples (#86, Shidoji, #85, Yakuriji, #84Yashimaji) by 10:30am, and was on the train back to my wife's dad's place by 11:40. Done with the 88!

The owner and I in front of Taiya ryokan.  Highly recommended, newly remodeled ryokan.

Takamatsu and the inland sea from #84, Yashimaji

Overall touring the 88 temples of Shikoku has been an excellent, and very tiring, experience.  The beautiful scenery and the friendly people I met on the way will be hard to forget.

Some statistics:

Total days bicycling: 15 (half day at start and half day at end)

Total km bicycled: 1337

Average km/day over 15 full days: 90

Total elevation gain: 14,000m

Total calories expended bicycling: 38,000 (according to Garmin)

Day 15

Day 15, August 17

I left early with Inoue-san to have breakfast at a convenience store and go to temple #80, Kokubunji. Kokubunji has a friendly cat that welcomes the visitors and keeps meowing at them until they give up some food or scratch it's head.

With Inoue-san before departing the ryokan

Friendly cat that helps you with getting your book signed at Kokubunji

Afterwards, Inoue-san and I parted ways...I had two temples up on a hillside to finish before heading to the flatlands again. The last temple, #88 Ōkuboji was a hill climb to 450m and my plan was to finish the day with that, then on the next morning take in the last 3 temples as I cycled back to Takamatsu to catch the train.

View of Seto Inland Sea from Shiromineji

The bad omens started showing up when I got on my bike and realized the rear tire was low. Must be a slow leak, so I pumped it up and headed up to temple #81, Shiromineji. After visiting the temple I double checked the tire...it was low again...and thought about replacing with a new tube I brought along. As I took out the new tube, I realized I had bought one with the wrong valve! So now I had no choice but to keep filling the tube up with air and hope to make it down to a bike shop. At #82, Negoroji, after another quick tire check I realized there was an area on the tire where the tube was starting to poke through the tire. Great, now I needed to desperately replace both tire and tube. My hopes of making it back down from the 250m tall hill were dashed when a few minutes after leaving the temple my tire completely blew out. No other option but to call a cab, and find a bike shop. Luckily the cabbie who came was extremely helpful and drove me around with my bike roped into the trunk until we found a shop that carried the correct size tires (not an easy task). The cabbie even gave me a discount, switching off his meter a kilometer or so before the bike shop. The repair, with cab ride,

ended up setting me back 13,000 yen, but I was back on the road and still had a chance to get to Ōkuboji before it closed.

I did manage to make it to Okuboji before they closed, after a long hard climb, and was able to find a room at a very nice ryokan back down by the bay. 95 km all told, not including my taxi ride. I was dead tired and crashed after a bath and a beer. Tomorrow, the last day, should be easy with only 3 temples and no hills as I work my way back to Takamatsu.

Last of the mountain temples (and last temple), #88 Ōkuboji

Day 14

Day 14, August 16

Unfortunately today was off to a bad start I woke up early, planning to get to #70, Yamamotoji before it opened at 7:00. Before loading my bags on my bike I did the usual inspection, only to find that one of the spokes on my rear wheel was broken. Looks like I would spend the morning looking for a bike shop and fixing my bike. The clerk at the business hotel I stayed at was extremely helpful and he said he would call around until he found a shop that opened early and stocked bike parts. He did find one, and I had the bike fixed and was on the road by 11:00am, earlier than expected given the circumstances. Seems like my bicycle is starting to feel its age, and I can only hope it makes it the rest of the way.

Flowers in bloom at Yamamotoji

The temples this day were remarkably picturesque, and some were outfitted with shops selling pilgrimage goods.

Pink is the in-fashion color for this year's henro.   This charming outfit will ensure you complete your pilgrimage in style!

My favorite had to be Iyadaniji, a temple built into a hillside that one had to climb 500+ steps to get to the main building. At the top, they had a room open to the public showing what was allegedly Kobo Daishi's study when he was young.

Steps up to Iyadaniji

Still more stairs...not there yet

Study where Kobo Daishi allegedly practiced from age 7 to 13 in the late 8th century

That evening I stayed at a small Ryokan before temple #80. To my surprise Inoue-san, the other guy I ran into doing the temples by bicycle, showed up later that evening. He was a couple temples ahead of me, and planned on finishing the next day before returning to the Tokyo area.

Day 13

Day 13, August 15

The day started off with an early morning visit to Maekamiji just as the temple opened. Then it was off on a 45 km ride and climb to #65, Sankakuji, which really started to tire me out. On the way out of the temple there was a group of housewives handing out free juice and asking people to sign a petition to keep relations good between husband and wife. Always one to foster good relations between husband and wife, I signed the petition and enjoyed a cup of juice (red plum and shiso...delicious). It was so good I wanted to ask for another cup, but was afraid I would have to sign the petition again...

Steps to Sankakuji, and the ladies offering juice halfway up

From there it was another 30 km, ending in a long, hot climb with no shade to the ropeway leading to Unpenji, a temple nestled at 880m in the mountains.

Entrance to Unpenji from the ropeway

Taking a break at Unpenji...it's much cooler at 800m

Statues of the 500 Arhats of Buddhism

The day ended down in the city of Kannonji, after visiting the temple of that name. I finished the day with a meal at a shot bar called Tennessee Annex. Kind of expensive, but the food was good and since I was the only customer (still early evening) I was able to have a good conversation with the bartenders. And the bartender offered me a free bourbon (Clementine) to finish the evening off.

Dinner and drinks at Tennessee Annex in Kannonji

Day 12

Day 12, August 14

The day was mostly flat, with only two climbs during the day.  With the large number of temples to visit in Ehime, you get into a routine of visiting the Hondō (main temple) and Daishidō (temple to Kobo Daishi), lighting your candles & incense and then getting your book signed.  The temples kind of pass in a haze, so it is good to have the camera with me.

Nankōbō, relatively new temple in traditional style

Kokubunji, very modern-style temple

The last difficult one was up to temple number 60, Yokomineji to an elevation of 800 meters. Luckily, there was a bus to take me up 600 of those...

#60, Yokomineji, is at the top of those mountains...

But this bus can take me there!

Afterwards I finished through temple #63, Kisshōji and found a cheap ryokan with a hot spring to spend the night.

Day 11

Day 11, August 13

After two mountain temples in the morning, it was back down to sea level and the temples near Matsuyama in Ehime. Nice change from the mountains, although it is a lot more hot and humid in the flatlands.

Looking out towards Matsuyama...the long-awaited downhill

Frog water basin at Jōruriji

Tanuki (raccoon dog) monk statue at Sairinji

Most hotels and ryokan were booked due to the Obon weekend holiday, but I did find a small place to stay down by the port in a suburb of Matsuyama. Took an evening walk along the water and watched the kids fishing from the port before dinner and bed.

Kids fishiing from the dock at sunset at the Horie port

Gulls enjoying the evening sunset

Day 10

Day 10, August 12

Today was spent cycling up through the mountains in Ehime.  Not so many photos, as I spent most of my time on my bicycle grinding my way over one pass or the other.  The interesting thing is that at temple 43, Meisekiji, NHK was filming footage for a travel program they will air on September 11.  They spent a few minutes interviewing me, and then afterwards I went out had some ice-cream and then prepared for the long haul over a pass to temple 44.  I never realized until the next day that I forgot to have the temple sign my nokyocho (book recording your visits to the 88 temples).  Oh well...that's what  30 seconds of (not so much) fame will do to me.

View from Ryūkōji

Day 9

Day 9, August 11

After Chiyoe and I parted ways at 8:00 am, I spent the day bicycling in to Ehime prefecture. There were only two temples along the way, Enkōji and Kanjizaiji, but the coastline was beautiful as always.

Ehime coast, late afternoon

At the first temple I met another guy doing the 88 temples by bicycle, Inoue-san.  A high-school teacher in his late 20s, he's doing the temples and camping out each night.  We bicycled together for the last 50 km of the day, but I couldn't manage to keep up with him...must be my age...although we did run into each other occasionally over the next several days.

Pilgrim at Kanjizaiji

I found another quaint ryokan to stay in, Ōhata, right by the river.  The food was hearty, the beer good, and the evening view was great.

My Room at Ohata, the full moon and a hawk

Day 8

Day 8, August 10

I left Bima Ryokan early (the owners packed some onigiri for my breakfast) and visited Iwamotoji right as it opened.  After that, it was a 95km bike ride to the southwest corner of Kochi, to Ashizurimisaki.  The coastline was beautiful as usual, and the blue water kept tempting me for a swim.

Just the Pacific, not the South Pacific

Chiyoe came down from Shiga to spend the night (and to bring some biking shorts which I forgot at the ryokan on day 3, and some new biking gloves) and was due to arrive around 4:00pm.  I made it to temple #38 Kongōfukuji in time to pay my respects at the temple and check into the hotel before she arrived.

Statue of Sea Turtle that let Kobo Daishi ride on his back, per the myth

As this was our anniversary, we were hoping to stay in a nice hot spring, but most of the really nice ones were booked for Obon holiday.  We setted on a minshuku/onsen where the food was good, the service not so good, and the hot spring only so-so (but an ok view).  But even so, it was great to see Chiyoe after a week of biking alone, and spend our anniversary together.

Day 7

Day 7, August 9

Sunrise from my hotel room

I woke up to an early sunrise over the bay. I got a fairly late start but managed to make it to temple #36, Shōryūji by noon. 

Temple #35, Kiyotakiji

From there to my target for the evening was a 60km trip with two possible routes, one which followed an inland fjord and the other which traveled along the coast. I chose the latter without taking too close a look at the map. It turns out that route is called “Skyline Road,” and for a reason. It climbs up to a ridge a couple hundred meters above the ocean and then follows the ridgeline. Beautiful, but tiring.

View from Skyline Road

I wasn't able to make it to temple #37, Iwamotoji, before it closed, but luckily I found a nice ryokan right next to the temple. The ryokan, Bima Ryokan, had a quaint, old feel to it, and the owners were extremely friendly. After a good dinner and a small bottle of the local junmai sake, I was off to bed.

Bima Ryokan

Day 6

Day 6, August 8

Ready to climb that mountain behind me...the temple is at the top

I got an early start to the day, leaving my bags at the ryokan for the 350+ meter climb to Kōnomineji.  Hard climb, but instead of the usual basin of water to wash your hands at the temple, there was a waterfall that fell into a pool that was used instead.  It was cool and beautiful.

Waterfall at Kōnomineji 

This guy will throw you off the mountain if you're not careful

Kōnomineji was then followed by the long bike ride into Kōchi city. I was not sure I could make it all the way to my target, temple #32, Zenjifuji, because I kept getting lost in the side streets.  Finally between #29 and #30 a lady on a bicycle stopped and asked where I was headed.  When I told her where I was going, she offered to lead me all the way to #32.  The lady, Nishikawa-san, was in her mid 50s but had made the pilgrimage on bicycle 20 years ago.

Hats to keep the Buddhas warm...

Thanks to her I made it all the way to Zenjifuji, arriving 15 minutes before closing.  At zenjifuji I was able to make a last-minute reservation at a hotel on a small peninsula overlooking the bay, and finished the day in their hot spring and eating a delicious dinner including Kōchi katsuo-tataki.

Day 5

Day 5, August 7

As I bike into Kochi, the temples are much more spread out now, and there are few mountain temples. I finally am able to put in my first 100+ km day as I cycle from temple 23, Yakuōji, to Temple 24, Hotsumisakiji. There is not much to discuss except the endless, beautiful coastline (made slightly less beautiful because I was fighting a strong headwind for the whole 74 km).

Almost looks like Hawaii...well, maybe not

After Hotsumisakiji, I pushed on to number 25, Shinshōji, and finally number 26, Kongōchōji, barely making it in time before they closed for the day. I finished off the day trying to find a ryokan that would make a quick start to the mountain temple Kōnomineji the next morning. I found one, and enjoyed the evening cycle into the small hamlet. 

Evening surf in Kochi

After a quick meal of ramen and gyoza at an extremely friendly restaurant (they made an onigiri bento for me for the next day, free of charge) I arrived at the evening's lodging. Not very nice, but since I was in worse shape I figured it would do as a place to crash for the evening.

Day 4

Day 4, August 6

Woke up to rain at 5:00 this morning. According to the master of the ryokan, I would need to leave by 6:00 in order to make it to the first temple of the day, Kakurinji (鶴林寺), before it got too hot (yes, another mountain temple). It was only 11 km away, but he warned me I'd have to push my bicycle the last 5 km because it was so steep. So, even though I didn't believe him, he had my breakfast ready by 5:30am and I made it out of there after the rain mostly stopped by 6:45. I didn't have to push my bike the last 5km. Just about 3km of it! I couldn't believe the road...in some places my Garmin calculated the grade at more than 15%!! I realized I could stay on my bike anywhere under 10% grade, but anything more and I was pushing the bike uphill. After almost throwing up several times, I made it to the top around 8:15am. I would put that as the hardest climb by far up to now. Get me down out of these mountains!

After spending 20 minutes trying to recover my breath I paid my respects and zipped down the mountain on the way to number 21, Tairyūji (太竜寺), supposedly one of the most difficult and remote mountain temples. Oh crap, another mountain temple.

Luckily for me, they have a cable car that can take you from the river valley up to the top of the mountain in 10 minutes. This was the first time it took longer to get down off the mountain than get up it.

The proper way to get to the top of the mountain temples...

Statue of Kobo Daishi, the founder of the Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism.  He established Koya-san monestary to which most of the 88 temples are affiliated.  His statue is everywhere along the pilgrimage route.

The rest of the day I passed through valleys and small towns as I worked my way back to the ocean. 

Finally back down to the ocean!

As I came into the last temple of the day, I passed by a hotel with a hot spring, and a 500 yen charge to use the baths only...so tempting, but time was running out for the last temple.  Temple number 23, Yakuōji (薬王寺), was a very picturesque temple, but as I was anxious to get to the hot spring, I rushed things a bit.

View from Yakuoji

Koya-kun, the Koya-san mascot.  Is he a competitor to the pilgrimage manga-monk (don't know his name)? 

That evening I spent the night at a government-sponsored lodge. While the food was good, the room smelled like it was used by a family of chain smokers that died and were buried under the tatami mats. Too tired to do anything about it, I just had a beer and fell asleep.

Day 3

Day 3, August 5

I woke up early and had breakfast with 2 other travelers, both retired, and both walking the 88 temples. The owner of Sakuraya recommended me leave my bags at the ryokan, climb to Shozanji, and then return to the ryokan, pick up my bags and carry on. Definitely a good recommendation. It took me about 1 and a half hours to climb the 600m to the temple and there is no way I could have done it with all my bags. 

"Henro Eki", literally pilgrims' station, on the climb to Shozanji.  Simple shelter for pilgrims to spend the night.

Path to Shozanji at the top of the mountain.
Looking out across the valley where I spent the night.

Made it to the top!

After paying my respects, getting my book signed, I made the ride back down to the ryokan in about 20 minutes.

The rest of the days ride was pleasant through the river valley leading back into Tokushima. Around 5:00 I stopped at my next lodging, Funa no Sato (I called them up on a whim about 1 hour before arriving.) The lodge was a rustic sort of house with a traditional open pit fireplace (covered over) that the guests sat around to eat dinner. There were four other guests, 3 of them from Koya-san (the main temple that most of the other 88 temples are affiliated to) and were walking a section of the pilgrimage. It turns out the older lady is a certified monk (or whatever the word is for female monk) who has done the pilgrimage a whopping 52 times (3 walking, the rest bus tours or car). 

Breakfast at Funa no Sato

 She had some interesting stories, like the one about the guy who holds the record for pilgrimages, currently somewhere around 500 (all car). Apparently he owned a company and after retiring, he just spends his time driving around Shikoku in circles constantly visiting temples, showing up back home once in a while. They say that every temple you visit you get one sin washed away. I wonder what it was that drove him to spend the rest of his life on a constant pilgrimage.

With that, I decided it was time to go to bed.