Day 3

Day 3, August 5

I woke up early and had breakfast with 2 other travelers, both retired, and both walking the 88 temples. The owner of Sakuraya recommended me leave my bags at the ryokan, climb to Shozanji, and then return to the ryokan, pick up my bags and carry on. Definitely a good recommendation. It took me about 1 and a half hours to climb the 600m to the temple and there is no way I could have done it with all my bags. 

"Henro Eki", literally pilgrims' station, on the climb to Shozanji.  Simple shelter for pilgrims to spend the night.

Path to Shozanji at the top of the mountain.
Looking out across the valley where I spent the night.

Made it to the top!

After paying my respects, getting my book signed, I made the ride back down to the ryokan in about 20 minutes.

The rest of the days ride was pleasant through the river valley leading back into Tokushima. Around 5:00 I stopped at my next lodging, Funa no Sato (I called them up on a whim about 1 hour before arriving.) The lodge was a rustic sort of house with a traditional open pit fireplace (covered over) that the guests sat around to eat dinner. There were four other guests, 3 of them from Koya-san (the main temple that most of the other 88 temples are affiliated to) and were walking a section of the pilgrimage. It turns out the older lady is a certified monk (or whatever the word is for female monk) who has done the pilgrimage a whopping 52 times (3 walking, the rest bus tours or car). 

Breakfast at Funa no Sato

 She had some interesting stories, like the one about the guy who holds the record for pilgrimages, currently somewhere around 500 (all car). Apparently he owned a company and after retiring, he just spends his time driving around Shikoku in circles constantly visiting temples, showing up back home once in a while. They say that every temple you visit you get one sin washed away. I wonder what it was that drove him to spend the rest of his life on a constant pilgrimage.

With that, I decided it was time to go to bed.